It’s been almost a year since I moved to the north of Germany
So far it has been a great experience. I like it here: I met great people, built good friendships and I love my job BUT, as some of you might know, this land can not be considered a climbing paradise. It’s quite flat. I’ve been missing the feeling of touching rock, of committing to a vertical climb and even of taking some big whippers (never thought I would ever said that).
So I started to look around, to see if there was any low-key climbing heaven, hidden somewhere around here. Turns out that the closest climbing spot from where I live is not in Germany…and it’s not even in the main land.
Bornholm island, Denmark
When I found about it, I got completely hooked about the idea of climbing there. It was almost winter, so the chances of climbing there were quickly fading away. For weeks I posted and texted people in social medias climbing groups (Berlin, Rostock, Hamburg…every big city in the surroundings), but no one could/would join me in a spontaneous climbing weekend in Bornholm. Well…then I said “fuck it, I’m going by myself”.
Bornholm Island has a great selection of granite routes, both sport and trad climbing. There’s also a lot of bouldering on the western side of the island, but my idea was to climb in the most iconic spot of the island, the Møselloken quarry. I’m talking about an active granite quarry, meaning that workers sometimes still blow up dynamite, so climbing was not suggested on weekends, when these boom-bam-boom activities might take place. My only option was to go on a weekend. On friday I racked up: climbing gear, rope, trad-rack, sleeping bag, a tent, some clothes, some food (not much) and my main tool to reach the island: a crappy city bike. After loading my 25 kg backpack, I took a train and biked to Sassnitz, where I took a 3-hours ferry to reach Bornholm. Once there, on the south, I biked to the very north of the island, where the quarry is. Maps was suggesting a 1.5 hours path by bike, so I followed that. It was a lie. It took me 3.5 hours: most of the path was steep up-and-down hills, either in the woods or on some gravel. For the first time in my life I understood why people invest so much money on good bikes. After sweating all my water reserves, I reached the camping spot: Lejrplads Egeløkke. Highly recommended: cheap, kind owners and just 5 minutes by walk to the climbing walls.
I forgot an important detail of my trip. For the whole time, in the train, on the bike and on the ferry, both in Germany and Denmark, I always had a big A4 piece of paper on my back saying “looking for a climbing partner”. I put a lot of hope in it but, unfortunately, It didn’t work. No one tapped my back. So I still had to find a climbing partner for the weekend…my plan was to climb on rope, not to free solo.
I guess I was lucky
The camping spot was full of danish climbers. A big group of people and smaller one of youngsters. I spoke with both and all of them happily agreed to involve me in their groups the following day. I can’t express by words my joy and excitement in that moment. We spent the nigh around the fire, eating, talking and having a good time. Afterwards, in my tent, I spent the night looking up some routes (I had bought the book “Bornholm on the rocks” written by Karsten Kurz, a local guy who made a fantastic job in grouping all the information about climbing on the island).
The following day I spent most of the time climbing with Noah, Anna, Isak, Oskar and Jakob…all great people living in Copenhagen. I couldn’t ask for better people to climb and spend the weekend with. If you’re reading this guys, thank you again for the good time.
I made a short video about this spontaneous adventure, not just philosophising about it but also showing some climbs. You can find it below or here.
I guess I am an adult now, but the more I live these experiences, the more I understand how much I need and want them.